Mumbai and Goodbye ;(

December 2, 2015
Currently: Sitting in the Mumbai airport and reeling at the fact that this blog has already come full circle.

So, all that is left is Mumbai. And what a fitting end to this trip. Much like Kolkata it is a bit of a shock and assault on the senses. A flurry of activity, noise, sounds, culture, food, dirt, people, and heat. Mostly heat. 95 degree heat. And humidity. Which makes for a very sticky, sweaty, stinky Lena. And let's not forget the masses of people. Little known fact, this city is actually India's most populous with estimates of around 20 million people living in its cosmopolitan center. Imagine 20 million people. It's over twice the amount of people in the entire country of Switzerland. Insanity! Indian Insanity!

Mumbai traffic

With only one full day left to explore the city, I tried to squeeze in as much as I could! Luckily, Mumbai is all about that architecture. Our walking tour captured the British influence perfectly. At every turn of the head, you find yourself amazed at yet another brilliant example of colonial architecture. Mumbai is the first place I couldn't get away from the British influence. But enough talking. Let's get to those impressive-looking structures I keep yammering on about.

 Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

 Gateway of India

 Horniman Circle Garden - where a lady followed us around talking at us (probably mad at us for being culturally insensitive in some unknown way) for over 20 minutes. Her persistence was admirable.

 Headquarters of the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai, aka the largest civic organization in the country

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus - aka the train station, which just so happens to be yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site

Despite the heat/humidity combo trying to drag us down, Nicola and I persisted with the help of ice cold bottles of water and tasty Fancy ice cream bars to walk over 9 miles across the city. I was so grateful to be able to spend my last day in Mumbai with someone so wonderful! Nicola was the perfect companion and I can't thank her enough for trudging through the streets and embracing that never-ending sense of adventure you need to have to survive as an active tourist in Mumbai. We walked north until our noses couldn't handle the rotten stench of sewage, turned back, and sheepishly trudged on newly worn blisters all the way back down to Colaba. It was miserably wonderful, if you can imagine that feeling. It was an Indian experience through and through. Love it until you hate it until you love it all over again. In a random turn of events, Nicola and I stumbled into a weird celebration of the Indian Navy. Cue masses of Indians, and even more people wanting pictures with the token blondes. I got a pretty awesome picture out of the Gateway to India from it though.

Because food is 2/3 the reason I booked this trip (not really...but kind of true), my last meal has to be documented as a masala dosa with a naan thrown for good measure and a lassi for dessert. All for 125 Rupees. The food is one thing I'll definitely miss. I did the impossible. 51 days of Indian food. They said it could not be done and I still wasn't ready to let it go! I will admit to a shameful McFlurry or two, but all in all, I stayed true to the cuisine.

Side note - I did count the number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites I managed to cover in this trip and it was around twelve, but I ended up missing quite a few easy ones in Delhi and Mumbai that could have pushed it past fifteen. Crazy to think there's over thirty total in India. So much left to see (foreshadowing!)...

I could do the whole sad "it's over" bit, but that's tired. India was awesome. I couldn't have asked for a better trip. Or better tour leaders. Or a better truck. Or better travel buddies. It's funny. I sold myself on this trip by saying, "This is it. This is your trip of a lifetime." But it's not the trip of a lifetime. It's one trip in my lifetime. Those who really know me, know that it's not even close to my last. It's my last until my inevitable travel bug itches again.

Farewell India. You did good. I've got ten years to take advantage of that pesky visa again. South India... I'm coming for you. Until we meet again!

Lots of love,

Lena

Mandu, Ajanta, & Ellora: Palaces on Caves on Caves

November 29, 2015
Currently: Scrambling to catch up on my blog before the trip ends. Two days! Only two days left in this beautiful country!

Ticking off a few more UNESCO World Heritage Sites, we continued our journey through India this time taking the rustic, rural route under the watchful eye of Rafik, our trusty local guide/cook. He's been around a few times (ten years) so he's got the routine down. Last year, Rafik even starred with Daisy in a Top Gear India article in December. He claims Ellora as his home and is a wonderfully quiet, kind family man who really knows how to cook!

one roadside lunch stop, coming right up!

Besides bush camping it for a little bit, we continued our never-ending attempt to further culturalize ourselves in Mandu, an old fortress from as early as the 6th century BC. Ownership of this fortress bounced around from the Parmars to the Khiljis to the Mughals to the Marathas to the Aghans and then back to the Mughals (Akbar's reign, of course) and finally deserted to become the ghost town it remains today. That history is a little sketchy (there were a lot of men with really big egos who kept fighting each other, so it got confusing) and probably not totally accurate, but you get the idea. Remnants of the fort are found all over the little town. One set of royal palaces are relatively well-kept and help create the illusion of life back in these eras.

 An overview of the complex

 Jahaz Mahal or Ship Palace is situated between two artificial lakes and is supposed to look like a ship floating in water. I don't see it... but that's just me

 Hindola Mahal or Swinging Palace. I actually get the nickname for this one.

 Hoshang Shah's Tomb - India's first marble structure and a template for the construction of the Taj Mahal. I see the resemblance.

gotta love that repetition and beautiful colors (photo cred to Kate!)

We were also on a mission to take a trip back in time, caveman style. Okay, not really that far back, but definitely BC level. Ajanta and Ellora are two cities known for some pretty extensive cave systems that highlight the best artwork ranging from the second century BC to ninth century AD. Ajanta is the more extensive and older of the two, protected within a horseshoe shaped valley. 

These caves showcase some of the finest Buddhist Indian paintings. Some caves served as monasteries while others were used as temples for worship. Both types of caves were way impressive. It was unreal to imagine people using only a hammer and a chisel to create these masterpieces. Literally just a hammer. And a chisel. And human strength. That's it. Those who started the caves had no chance of seeing their hard work realized. Even 800 years weren't enough to finish them off. Could you imagine starting something knowing you'll never even be close to seeing the final product? Talk about demotivating. Even today a few of the caves remain unfinished because of a lack of funds.

a famous painting of Vajrapani, protector and guider of Gautama Buddha

 stupa hall for worship - amazing acoustics for prayer time

it's got some atmosphere, no?

On to Ellora! These caves were completed much later and included not only Buddhist caves, but also caves dedicated to Jainism and Hinduism. This grouping of caves celebrates the harmony between different religions during this time period in India. The Buddhist caves in Ellora were similar to those in Ajanta, but were from a later time period. Though the history of Ajanta was more captivating, the Buddhist stupa in Ellora was the most entrancing.

 the staring actually helped make for a good picture

 buddha, buddha, buddha, buddha

 my favorite cave, once again amazing acoustics

envision 300 monk students sitting here for daily school lessons and meditation sessions

On to the main event... The Hindu Kailasanatha temple is unrivaled in its size and intricacies. As you enjoy these views, remember this was all carved out of one single rock. It covers an area double the size of the Parthenon in Athens and, as you will see, is multi-storeyed. Say whaaaat!

It really is a good thing I'm almost done with these blogs, because my vocabulary isn't extensive enough to keep up with all of the wonders I've seen. I'm sure sick of using "beautiful," "amazing," "incredible" and I'm sure you're sick of hearing it. I guess that's kind of a good problem to have, so no more complaints from this girl. I guess I'll have to go buy myself a thesaurus!

Lots of love,

Lena

Udaipur & Ranakpur: For the Romantic in You

November 27, 2015
Currently: Enjoying a sunset view at a rural lake at our campsite somewhere in Rajasthan

Ranakpur is a small village located somewhere between Jodhpur and Udaipur known for its fabled Jain temple. I can vouch and say it is without a doubt the most beautiful temple I've ever seen. Ever, ever. It even beats out Chang Rai's Wat Rong Khun (though that is still a must-see). The craftsmanship behind this temple is a true homage to the beautiful religion it represents. I gave you a taste of Jainism earlier, but I can't stress enough how alluring this religion is. I'm drawn to it like I am Buddhism, especially in two of its values that I believe the world could never have enough of. Anekantavada, or non-absolutism, preaches open-mindedness. The basic idea is that everyone has a different perspective and differences in opinions and beliefs should be respected. Tolerance. Remember the parable of the blind men and the elephant. And aparigraha, or non-attachment. Material things aren't important to Jains. Don't take more than you need. Share your wealth and possessions. Holding onto things is what leads to direct harm not only to others but also to yourself. Swirl those ideas in your head while you take a mini-virtual tour of this temple.

As you can see, I had zero chance of containing the photographic nerd in me. When in a beautifully ornate Jain temple with a portrait lens burning a hole in your pocket and a tour guide/photographer at your disposal... what's a girl to do but have a serious photography session!

On to Udaipur! This city is known around India as one of the most romantic cities, burrowed between the rolling foothills of the Aravalli Range and nuzzled next to the spectacular Lake Pichola. It holds a kaleidoscope of attractions. Fairytale palaces, sprawling gardens, narrow alleyways, and lush mountain views make this city's storied and chivalrous history come alive. And if I haven't sold you yet, it was voted "Best City in the World" by Travel + Leisure magazine in 2009!

Founded in 1559 after a hermit blessed the future grounds of its famous City Palace, Udaipur was the capital of the Mewar kingdom. It escaped the Mughal influence (including Akbar's grip if you can believe it) because its hilly location provided too complicated for the Mughal horses to reach. With two full days here, we had all the time in the world to explore its charm. And we were right in the middle of it all - and by it, I mean a Thamel-inspired tourist district filled with handicraft stores complete with nonstop hustling storeowners all claiming the lowest prices in town. The biggest attraction is the City Palace, where you can roam the gardens and amble through a neverending maze of a museum.

City Palace from the grounds

 view of the main Tripolia (triple) gate and the city sprawled beyond

so ornate!

The other main attraction is the Jag Mandir, or the Lake Garden Palace, set in the middle of Lake Pichola. The palace was a summer residence for the royal family, but has also served as a sanctuary for asylum seekers in the past. It's also the setting of the infamous Octopussy Bond movie from the 1980s. Across the way in the same lake, the aptly named the Taj Lake Palace is constructed only of white marble and sits like a float on top of the water. If you're wealthy enough, you can stay there at a five star hotel. I just drunk in the free view from a distance...because #budgettraveler.

Taj Lake Palace

Beyond that, I did my favorite thing and something I try and do in every city: get lost. Mike, as always, was my partner-in-crime and we ended up stumbling into a local Tibetan market. We were actually left alone for once (if you ignore the perpetual staring, of course)! The only thing missing was an authentic momo stand to polish off the experience. If you get away from the tourist district, you really can get a pretty good sense of the local Udaipur lifestyle.

It seems crazy to me how much I've changed in my time traveling around India. I've grown so confident and comfortable, no matter what city I'm thrown in. It all works out in the end, and you really do get used to the customs and staring that go along with being a tourist in India. I would have been plenty happy to dream away more beautiful days in this city, but onwards we must trod in our journey as tourists.

Lots of love,

Lena

Jodhpur: The Blue City

November 24, 2015
Currently: Trying my darndest not to think about the fact that I only have a week left so I keep enjoying every moment!

It was blue! Recap: pink city (Jaipur), golden city (Jaisalmer), and now the blue city (Jodhpur). They really like their J-names here in Rajasthan don't they? Jodhpur is another desert city along our path towards Mumbai. It's been listed as one of Lonely Planet's most extraordinary places to stay, so it was another worthy stop on the itinerary. 

Rewind 110km. We took a little detour to the small desert village of Setrawa. This region is remote and home to a women's empowerment center called the Sambhali Trust. Founded in 2007, this nonprofit operates sixteen projects around Rajasthan to disrupt the cycle of poverty so often seen in rural areas within India through education and skills trainings. They fight against inane belief systems, like ones that argue domestic violence against women is justified for things like "poor cooking" and "leaving the house without permission." If you can believe it, 55% of Indian men and 50% of Indian women stand by that previous statement. From after school programs to sewing training to language courses to self defense classes, it combats discrimination of caste, gender, and economy. We arrived on a sunny Saturday afternoon and were warmly welcomed by three teachers and a roomful of children aged 4-16.

A short introduction and tour later, we spent some time just hanging out and getting to know the vibrant personalities within this little haven. Under the shade of an old tree, we sat in a huge circle playing duck duck goose. Giggles and laughter replaced words and sentences. It's wonderful how something as simple as a smile or music or games can be so universal! After a delicious homemade lunch, we had a little henna party. Henna is another skill taught here that girls can use to earn a little extra income, so we happily offered our hands as blank canvases!

While they were chattering in Hindi, we couldn't understand much but still caught on to the authenticity of the relationships. Their friendship is one of family. You could see it in teasing comments and lighthearted laughter. It was a wonderful few hours and I'm so happy that this organization exists to provide the space and time to flourish children and women into their full potential.

After arriving in Jodphur, we were again amazed by our stunning accommodations complete with a rooftop view of a palace. We took a tuk tuk tour of the city, starting off with a visit to the Umaid Bhavan Palace before setting off to explore the ever impressive Mehrangarh Fort. 

Umaid Bhavan Palace - built by a really cool king, Umaid Singh, who decided to build this palace to give thousands of people a job to survive a three-year famine in the 1930s

Mehrangarh Fort - built by the Rathores

This fort is invincible. It has never been taken in a siege even when that siege lasts over six months! Cannon holes puncture the walls and are now a symbol of pride for the city and a reminder of the might and spirit of the Rathores. Today, it houses an impressively well-stocked museum filled with galleries of priceless items from the olden days - from howdahs to palanquins to royal paintings.

blue indeed

We saw some other touristy things like the mausoleum, Jaswant Thada, and the clocktower, Ghanta Ghar. But the highlight of the day was definitely getting swept into the madness of the Sandar Market. Mike, Nicola, and I meandered through the narrow streets, half browsing for souvenirs and half aimless strolling. It was great to be back in the "heart" of an Indian city again.

We stumbled upon the Mohanlal Verhomal, a small spice business run by three sisters. After a great conversation about their business (they export to Homer, Alaska!) and the best way to make masala chai tea, Mike and I invested some money in masala chai tea spice mix. And, if you're interested in buying some for yourself, you should check out their website! You can order online the same magic spice mix I bought. I cannot wait to go home and try my hand at recreating amazing Indian tea! I also happened upon the 'local tea guy' (seriously, five locals cut in front of me while I was attempting to buy some) and bought some Assam tea for the crazy low price of Rs 55 for 250 g. Awesome.

my tea guy!

my spice gal!

Another one to check off the list. Another city closer to my final destination. Jodhpur was good fun and a city I highly recommend putting on your to-see list.

Lots of love,

Lena